Air-dried on wooden racks in Lofoten, stockfish has fed Europe for a millennium. Discover how tørrfisk is made, the Venetian shipwreck that sold it to Italy, and why Nigeria is a devoted customer.
Polar bears, a seed vault built to survive the apocalypse, and a town where cats, burials and unarmed walks are all off the menu. Here is what it is really like to visit Svalbard, Norway's High Arctic archipelago.




