Photo by X1ntao ZHOU on Pexels. A general Icelandic geothermal scene, not a specific pool or lagoon.
On a dark, sleety January evening in Reykjavík, the busiest social venue in town is not a pub. It is the neighbourhood swimming pool. Steam pours off the water into the freezing air, and in the hottest pool a retired fisherman, two teenagers, and a lawyer still in her work shoes are all discussing the same thing: the weather, the news, and whoever is not there to defend themselves. This is the sundlaug, and it is one of the most important institutions in Icelandic daily life.
Visitors tend to meet Icelandic bathing culture through one or two famous lagoons, then head home with a fair-sized credit card bill. But the real story is the humble public pool, and knowing how it works will save you money, spare you some awkward glances, and give you a much better look at how Icelanders actually live. This guide covers the unwritten and written rules, the pools worth visiting, and an honest comparison between the Blue Lagoon, the Sky Lagoon, and the local alternatives.
What Is a Sundlaug?
The word sundlaug simply means “swimming pool” (literally “swim pool”), and Iceland has well over a hundred of them, many heated with geothermal water piped straight from the ground. Even tiny villages tend to have one. Because Iceland sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, hot water is cheap and abundant, and the country has used it for centuries. Some of the oldest written references to bathing in Iceland come from the sagas, which mention Snorri Sturluson’s own geothermally fed pool at Reykholt.
A typical municipal complex has a lap pool, a shallow area for children, a water slide, and a row of heitir pottar (“hot pots”): round, shallow tubs kept at set temperatures, usually somewhere between 36 and 44°C (about 97 to 111°F). Many also have a steam room or a cold tub. Learning to swim is a compulsory part of the school curriculum, which is why pools are woven into childhood, teenage dating, and old age alike.
The Rules: Shower First, Naked, With Soap
This is the single most important thing to know, and the one visitors most often get wrong. Before you enter any Icelandic pool, you must shower thoroughly without your swimsuit on, with soap, paying particular attention to your head, armpits, groin, and feet. Pools use very little chlorine because the geothermal water is already clean, and this rule is how they keep it that way.
- Look for the signs. Almost every changing room has a pictogram showing exactly which body parts to wash. Staff do watch, and they will politely send you back if you skip it.
- Shower areas are communal. Most are open plan within the single-sex changing room, with no curtains. Nobody is looking, and everybody is doing the same thing.
- Soap is usually provided. You do not need to bring your own, though a towel is not always included in the entry fee.
- Shoes stay in the lockers. Many pools have a designated shoe-free zone from the entrance onwards.
- Wear your swimsuit in the water. Naked showering is for the changing room only.
Anyone who has read about Finnish sauna etiquette will find the logic familiar: the Nordic approach to communal bathing is built on cleanliness, equality, and a complete lack of fuss. Where it differs is the tone. Finnish sauna culture prizes quiet. Icelandic hot pots are chatty.
The Hot Pot Social Order
The hot pot is where Icelanders catch up on local news, talk politics, and make deals. It is an informal institution so well known that the phrase “hot tub politics” is used with a straight face. Regulars often come at the same time every day and sit in the same pot. If you are a visitor, you are welcome, though you are unlikely to be invited to join the conversation unless you start it yourself.
A few practical points:
- Start in the cooler pot (around 38°C) and work your way up.
- Take it slowly. The hottest pots reach 42 to 44°C, and a few minutes is plenty.
- Drink water. Geothermal pools dehydrate you faster than you notice.
- It is normal to move between a hot pot and the cold tub, if the pool has one, in a loop.
- Do not photograph other bathers. Phones are generally discouraged poolside.
Public Pools Worth Visiting
Laugardalslaug, Reykjavík
The largest pool complex in the capital, with outdoor lap pools, a row of hot pots at different temperatures, a salt-water pot, a steam bath, and a long water slide. Locals use it for morning swims, and it is a good first stop for any visitor. A single entry costs roughly the price of a sandwich, a fraction of what the lagoons charge.
Vesturbæjarlaug and Sundhöllin, Reykjavík
Vesturbæjarlaug is a neighbourhood favourite with excellent hot pots, and Sundhöllin, the city’s oldest pool, has a classic 1930s interior and an outdoor section added more recently. Both give a strong sense of the pool as a community space.
Akureyri’s pool
The pool in Iceland’s northern capital, with its slides and hot pots, is among the best in the country and a highlight of any visit. See our guide to Akureyri for the rest of the town.
Remote and rural pools
Some of the most memorable pools are in places you would never expect: small village pools on the Westfjords coast, or a pool overlooking a fjord with a view of the mountains from the hot pot. If you are driving the Ring Road, check opening hours in advance, because rural pools often close early and may have limited winter schedules.
The Famous Lagoons
Iceland also has a handful of purpose-built geothermal spa experiences. They are more expensive, more polished, and aimed squarely at visitors, though many Icelanders enjoy them for special occasions.
The Blue Lagoon
Iceland’s most famous attraction is a surprise to many: the milky blue water is not entirely natural. It is runoff from the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant, which first collected in a lava-field basin in the 1970s. Bathers noticed that the silica-rich water seemed to help skin conditions, and the lagoon opened as a commercial attraction in the following decades. Today it is a full resort with a spa, a restaurant, and hotels. It sits close to Keflavík Airport, which is why many travellers go straight there on arrival or just before leaving.
The water is warm, mineral-rich, and photogenic, and the experience is polished. The trade-offs are crowds, a booking requirement well in advance, and prices that rise with demand. Early morning and late evening slots tend to be cheaper and quieter.
The Sky Lagoon
Opened in 2021 in Kársnes on the edge of Reykjavík, the Sky Lagoon is built on the coast with a long infinity edge that appears to run into the North Atlantic. Its signature is a seven-step ritual that moves you from the warm lagoon through a cold plunge, a sauna, a cold mist, a body scrub, and a steam room. Capacity is limited, so the atmosphere is calmer and the setting feels more intimate than the Blue Lagoon. It is also much closer to central Reykjavík, which makes it easy to fit in without a long transfer.
Other lagoons worth knowing
- Secret Lagoon (Gamla Laugin), Flúðir: a historic natural pool on the Golden Circle with bubbling geysers around it, and an informal, rustic atmosphere.
- Mývatn Nature Baths, north Iceland: often described as a quieter alternative to the Blue Lagoon, with a view across a volcanic landscape.
- Vök Baths, Egilsstaðir: floating pools on a lake in east Iceland.
- GeoSea, Húsavík: a seawater geothermal bath with an infinity edge facing Skjálfandi Bay, and an ideal pairing with a whale-watching trip.
- Seljavallalaug: a famous old outdoor pool in a mountain valley. It has been in poor shape in recent years and its status changes, so check locally before making the trip.
Blue Lagoon vs Sky Lagoon vs a Local Pool
| Feature | Blue Lagoon | Sky Lagoon | Public sundlaug |
|---|---|---|---|
| Setting | Lava field near the airport | Seaside edge of Reykjavík | Neighbourhood or village |
| Atmosphere | Busy, resort-style | Calm, curated | Social, local |
| Typical cost | Highest tier, rises with demand | High, slightly above the Blue Lagoon for premium passes | Roughly the cost of a casual lunch |
| Booking | Required, ahead of time | Recommended | Walk in |
| Best for | Arrival or departure day | A city-based spa evening | Everyday Icelandic experience |
Prices change often and vary by season and package, so always check the official websites for current rates rather than relying on a blog post. As a general guide, the lagoons are an occasional splurge costing a few thousand Icelandic krónur per person at the low end of their ranges and well above that for premium packages, while a public pool entry is far cheaper.
Practical Tips for Visitors
- Pack a swimsuit and a quick-dry towel. Many pools rent towels, but you can save a little by bringing your own.
- Consider a multi-visit card. Some towns sell cards covering several pool entries, which are good value if you plan to swim regularly.
- Mind your hair. Geothermal water, particularly at the Blue Lagoon, can leave hair brittle. Many visitors apply conditioner beforehand and tie it up.
- Remove silver and gold jewellery. Sulphur in the water can tarnish it.
- Go in winter. Few things beat soaking in a hot pot while snow falls, or, with luck, while the northern lights flicker overhead.
- Be mindful of the weather. The wind chill between the changing room and the pot can be fierce.
A Nordic Tradition of Bathing
Iceland’s pool habit fits into a wider Nordic love of water, heat, and cold. Finland has its saunas and the ritual of avanto ice swimming, while Norway, Sweden, and Denmark have a strong outdoor swimming culture, explored in our guide to wild swimming in Scandinavia. What sets Iceland apart is that the heat comes straight from the earth, available to everyone at a low price, and the pool is a central social space rather than a luxury.
If you are planning a trip, pair a pool visit with a day in the capital using our Reykjavík city guide, and for the wider picture of ice caves, waterfalls, and hot springs, see Iceland’s natural beauty guide. After a long soak, you will have earned a hearty meal: try the country’s famous Icelandic lamb or a bowl of skyr.
Final Thoughts
Go to the Blue Lagoon or the Sky Lagoon if you want a spa day, a postcard view, and a polished experience. But make sure you also spend an evening at an ordinary sundlaug, shower properly, find a hot pot, and listen to the conversation around you. It will cost a fraction of the price, and it is where you will learn what Iceland is really like.
